Farewell to Paradise - Day #7 in Puerto Viejo - Relocation to Costa Rica

Ashlea, Wanda and Tommy are flying home to Texas today. So these photos may be my last update. 

But....what an amazing experience they had! I really enjoyed following their journey and I appreciate that they were willing to share their trip with me via message and photos (thank you Facebook). 

One of the things that stands out to me about their trip is how much interaction they had with the locals.  After the 1st day or so I didn't hear very much about the expats. I heard much more about how they were building friendships and forming bonds with the local people and their experiences with local culture. That's exactly the way they wanted it.  I get the feeling that in Puerto Viejo this is fairly easy to do, however I'm sure with a little effort they could have had your "typical" US tourist vacation, lying on the beach, eating out and taking tours.  I'm happy they chose to experience the "real" Costa Rica!

Early on they met a young man named Kaboom and he became a friend.  Kaboom is a member of the Bribri - an indigenous people of Costa Rica living in Talamanca in Limon Province of Costa Rica

He shared his story and his life with them. 

And on their last night he prepared a celebration feast for them 

and cooked it on an open fire on the beach.

fire on the beach in Cocles

Rondon is a rich, delicious traditional Jamaican party dish and is very popular on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. The name is the Patois pronunciation of “run down”.

“Run down,” as in, the cook of the home prepares a soup with whatever they were able to track down or forage that day, whether it was in the backyard, a neighbors coconut tree, or the bounty of the sea.  For this reason, there are many variations on the dish, and there can be no wrong way.

Kaboom spent 2 straight hours on the beach grating coconuts

“The vast variety of fishes, small game, and wild and domestic meats available to the coast people, in combination with the foods they cultivated on their land, kept them well fed, to say the least. Preparing a meal rarely entailed a trip to the shop. It was merely a matter of “running down” the ingredients in the bush, in the sea, or on the farm. The thrifty housewife put everything together in one pot, simmered it in coconut milk, and called it “rundown” for everything she was able to “run down” that day. If it included fish, yam, plantain, scallions, palmito and Panamanian pepper, it could hardly be better.” 
“What Happen” – A Folk History of Costa Rica’s Talamanca Coast 
—by Paula Palmer, 2005, p 61

Rondon can be made in the kitchen or on the beach: 

just make a fire with a nice bed of coals and cook the soup in a big kettle resting on some stones

Heidor (a surfing instructor) was working so hard his pants were falling off from preparation of the coconut milk

That's dedication and patience!

The coconut milk - first squeeze and strain is done with cold water...2nd and 3rd time with hot (boiling water) to draw more milk out...they repeat the process until the milk starts to get clear

This entire meal was prepared by the men. A ton of heart goes into their food!

and no help from any women!!

most of the cooking and prep done by Kaboom and Heidor

Prepared in the kitchen and cooked on the beach over an open fire

Takes 8-9 hrs from start to finish

Ashlea asked to sample the fish and it was served to her on this leaf

Rondon is best served about 20 minutes after taking it off the heat. 

Locals cover the pot with banana leaves.

What a wonderful send off. I hope to meet up with Kaboom and some of the other local people when we visit in the spring.

Thank you Kaboom, Heidor and of course Ashlea, Tommy and Wanda for sharing your journey with us!

It was bound to happen - Tico Time Day 6 in Puerto Viejo - Relocation to Costa Rica

Things were going pretty well for Ashlea and the group...and then....it happened. The thing they've all warned us about and one of the biggest obstacles US expats have to face in Costa Rica.

It's called "Tico Time".

It is one of the biggest reasons why people return to the states.

In Costa Rica the Ticos don't feel the urgency to be restricted to a time schedule. Their lives are more relaxed and much less stressful than ours. They do things on their own schedule (which often means that it does not coincide with our schedule). They may tell you 8:30 on Monday and show up on Wednesday at noon. I guess you just never know.

Here in the US we are the exact opposite. We are taught from an early age to be prompt and we are pretty regimented where time is concerned. This difference is something that can drive some folks absolutely crazy and many will never adjust.

Today was a day Ashlea was looking forward to (and me too). This was the day she was to meet with the realtor. Set for 8:30 am. Time to check out the available housing in the area.  After all, this was one of the major reasons for her trip.  And, I was hoping to get some idea of housing costs in the area and also a chance to see what the houses really look like (thus far both of these facts have evaded us).

Well, for reasons ranging from unexpected early morning visitors, to lack of transportation the meeting did not happen on schedule. 

No houses were ever seen on the inside

But...the meeting did happen, finally

And we learned several things. 

If you're looking for a place to rent in Puerto Viejo, it's probably not a good idea to talk about it in public. In the US we like to put the info out in hopes that someone will know someone who knows someone and we can find a place.

In Puerto Viejo, telling someone will mean that they will tell someone who will tell someone who will tell someone who will tell someone and it will never stop.  It might get you a marriage proposal but probably will not result in you a finding a house! 

Instead find a reputable person and then keep it private! So now Ashlea (hopefully) has found just such a person.  If it works out, she can pass them along to me. 

Oh and BTW - Long term rentals are pretty difficult to come by in the Puerto Viejo area because during the high season, owners want their properties vacant so they can rent them short term and charge higher rents.  During the high season is when most of the money is made in that area.  Makes sense. So, you can't  really blame them. However that may cause some problems for those of us looking to rent all year.

So what are we going to do? At this point I have no idea.

Maybe this is a good time to start taking some advice from our Tico friends. 

Tico Time really means to slow down and go with the flow. It is the quiet acceptance of the well-meaning people of Costa Rica who have their own priorities.

Relax.  

What's the rush

It will all work itself out in the end 

This is how we do it! - Relocation Costa Rica

Tonight I am doing the happy dance.

This is how we do it

Montell Jordan

I've been chatting with my new friend Ashlea for several months now. We met on Facebook due to our mutual interest in relocating to Costa Rica (particularly the Puerto Viejo area located on the Southern Caribbean coast).

Ashlea and I had many really long, drawn out IM conversations on Saturday mornings. Each of us confessing our true desires (like possibly finding a boutique or some place to shop and how to open up a business) and our fears (like too many insects, wild animals and lousy internet).

Ashlea, her mom and a friend made plans to visit Costa Rica several months earlier than our planned spring time trip. So, she promised to report back to me and give me the 411 on the area.

Well, she arrived yesterday and is following through on her promise!

Looks like the only glitch so far has been the flight over (Spirit Air).  I have been very hesitant about taking advantage of one of the advertised "cheap" flights. They keep popping up on my fare alert. I think Ashlea took one of those flights and it was delayed in Miami.  The delay pushed them back a day. My plan is to fly Jet Blue to Ft Lauderdale and then on to Costa Rica.  Not the cheapest fare but reasonable if we wait for the right time to buy our tickets.

When they finally arrived in Costa Rica they made the 4 hour bus trip to Puerto Viejo. She reports that the trip seemed a bit long but explains it was due to their earlier flight delay.  A thumbs up to the bus and the beautiful scenery along the way.

The initial report was that the place is packed full of culture and pretty cool place despite the fact that it is also very hot and VERY humid. However, we both knew this going in.

Coco Loco Lodge

They stayed at the  his cute little place called the Coco Loco Lodge. A very nice, quite little place a bit off the beaten path and with no AC and mosquito nets--a plus.  On their 1st night they endured a power outage but were assured that although it happens from time to time (generally when it had rained a lot) It is not the norm.  In spite of this they were very happy with their lodging choice.  They did miss the earthquake that rocked Costa Rica the day before.

Our plan is to stay at Le Caméléon Boutique Hotel in Playa Cochles, located on a beautiful beach a few miles from Puerto Viejo.

They had a chance to check out Bread and Chocolate, a bakery and bistro in Puerto Viejo.  It's also on our list of places when we eat. The breakfasts look scrumptious.

Because we both have pets, Ashlea and I discussed the stray dog situation which I've read a lot about. The rumors appear to be true although she says the dogs seem friendly.

The local people have been very helpful and offering loads of info.

Last I heard from Ashlea they were are off to dinner and some music at The Lazy Mon.
Can't wait for the review!!
BTW - Our first stop in Puerto Viejo will be to the legendary Open Mic Night where you can jam out with musicians from all over the world every Sunday night!

Pura Vida!

Making new friends in Puerto Viejo

Thank you Ashlea, Wanda and Tommy

please stay tuned for more...

The delicious taste of Watermelon, with or without the booze! - Relocation Costa Rica

I was walking through our local Whole Foods market the other day and I began to wonder about all the different kinds of fruit available in Costa Rica.  I knew there would be many new ones to try but I wondered about the availability of my favorites,  the watermelon. 
It's my go to fruit during the hot summer season. 

The Spanish word for watermelon is Sandia and the Spanish word Melon is a cantaloupe.

Costa Rican watermelons, cultivated primarily on the Central Pacific and in Guanacaste have been selling well in European and North American markets,

There is nothing more refreshing than an ice cold cocktail and this Costa Rican Watermelon Mojito will fill the bill in popsicle form. Quick to make and definitely fun to eat.

Recipe Read more

According to a recent report, the countries of Holland, Germany, Italy, Belgium, Nicaragua, Puerto Rico, Ireland, Poland and the United States are some of the nations that import Costa Rican watermelons.

Even though Tico watermelons only make up 2.1 percent of the total U.S. watermelon market, that portion still accounts for 10.3 million kilos worth approximately $2.7 million, the ministerio said.

Holland has become the fruit's primary destination. Costa Rica shipped more than 14.2 million kilos there.

ingredients:

3/4 cup frozen coconut meat, slightly thawed

1/2 cup full-fat canned coconut milk

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

1 1/2 cups frozen watermelon chunks

1/4 cup coconut water

2 tablespoons honey

salty lime sugar

1 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon flaked sea salt

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the zest of one lime

In total, Costa Rica has exported more than 37,756 tons of watermelon worth $7,417,051 in the months between January and May of this year, the ministerio said. That's a 22 percent increase from last year.

Eat it, or drink it, either way it's very refreshing fruit and good for you as well.

Consuming fruits and vegetables of all kinds has long been associated with a reduced risk of many lifestyle-related health conditions. Many studies have suggested that increasing consumption of plant foods like watermelon decreases the risk of obesity and overall mortality, diabetes, heart disease and promotes a healthy complexion and hair, increased energy, overall lower weight.

Time to pack - Or at least start a plan to avoid over packing

This is a packing list I got from a cool blog called the Ramblin Traveler. You'll also find a lot of other helpful info especially about Puerto Viejo, if that's your destination. She moves around so you can also follow her other travels.  My packing list items are in blue.

I have already started to angst over what to bring on our trip and it's 6 months out. The trip is 14 days but since we are going to be moving around quite a bit (and frankly the crime problem has gotten me a little worried - the one that says NEVER LET ANYTHING OUT OF YOUR SIGHT). So since we will have our luggage with us I don't want to travel with anything more than I have to. Hence my plan is one bag and a carry on. My one bag is even carry on size,  so if I get lucky maybe I won't have to check a bag (f I can pull it off, this will be a first.!)  I generally travel with a large spinner, plus the carry on I mentioned and another bag filled to the brim with laptop, cosmetics, etc.

  Shorts and T-shirts
         I'm thinking 5 pairs of shorts should do it (for the beach areas only I hear)

 Nice casual outfit for evenings out (aka dressing’ to impression’!!)

        Not exactly sure about his one yet. Probably a long dress and nice pair of black slacks

  Sweater (yes, sweater) and long pants

       Ok sweater and 5 pairs of light weight long pants and a pair of jeans (which I will travel in) I try to travel in the heaviest pair of pants and shoes to save on space in the suitcase.  Plus jeans are sturdy and will be good for the cooler temperature on the plane and the weather in San Francisco which will be our city of origin. 

 Underwear and bras of course (men, you can skip the bras unless you are into some crazy kinky stuff I don’t know about and frankly don’t want to know about;))

  Shoe variety (I brought 2 sets of flip-flops and a pair of keens which have been invaluable throughout the trip!!  They serve as my hiking/general exercise “boots” and even my riding “boots”!  And they aren’t that bulky so they don’t take an excessive amount of space up in my bag.)

Tom's Tom's Tom's!! They are my go to shoe for traveling. They are light and comfy. So 2 pairs of Tom's. I have some hiking boots that I bought for my trip to Africa (I never wore them) They are kind of heavy so may settle for another pair of shoes I have that are walking shoes (wear them to travel in). Served me well on past trips to Paris. Also 1 pair of flats (you can wear for casual or dress). 1 pair flip flops and a pair of sandals. 

   Poncho (thanks mom!!)
            Rain can happen anytime

   Bathing suits (more than one as it takes 2-3 days for anything to dry around here and slipping into a wet and cold bathing suit isn’t all that great!!)

Check!

   Compact caboodle to put in all toiletries (I found a fabric caboodle that came with many storage areas and even little travel bottles that I filled with hydrogen peroxide, shampoo, lotion and tea tree oil bug spray.  Mind you this was in my backpack and not in my carry-on so there were no airport security issues)

  Compact sleep travel kit (as mentioned before I happened to purchase mine on the flight over and it’s come in handy many times!!  Pack included blanket, air pillow, eye mask and ear plugs)

Not needed as we have hotel reservations at every stop

   Towel (not all hostels provide you with a towel, and even if they do, sometimes it’s just a better idea to use your own!! Also, I have a second towel that my sister gave to me a while back.  I believe it is from Japan but it is very small yet acts like one of those sham wow towels while actually still having the feel of a towel)

 I plan to take a hand towel and washcloth (just in case). These items should be provided at out hotels

   BUG SPRAY!!!!!  (ok, now I really didn’t have any need for bug spray until I reached the Osa Peninsula, but in general this is a good idea!!)

Gonna try Avon Skin So Soft  some swear by it, others don't but I'm also taking my Repel (it is Deet free). It worked in Africa, but we'll see. 

•  Water bottle (my mom and I found this great water bottle called vapur: it’s a eco-friendly reusable plastic water bottle that is also BPA-free and the best thing about it is that when it’s empty, it’s as flat as a few sheets of paper, but when filled it simply expands and allows up to, if memory serves right, a half a liter of water!  It also comes with a carabiner for easy clipping to your body or pack!)

•  Hands-free headlight (I got one with three modes of lighting and it has come in great handy!!  Whether used for a night tour, light to get home after late-night fiestas, during blackouts that actually occur more often than not or simply in my own home when the 3 of the 4 light bulbs suddenly decide to burn out all within the same hour!)

           I have a headlight from my Africa trip will take it 

I 

•  Plastic bags (these are really essential too!!  They are great for stuffing still wet clothing into or dirty clothes into to separate them from the rest of the dry and clean clothes while traveling from one place to the next)

•  First Aid Kit (I bought one from Bass Pro Shop that is quite compact and has a lot of handy stuff including a syringe and gloves.  I’ve added to it extra bandaids, Neosporen and tea tree oil for bug bites)

          A must plus any other medications you might need (Tylenol etc)

         P.S I am also taking a roll of travel toilet tissue. Took some to Africa, You just never know!

Happy Packing

Moving slow but Celebrating the baby steps - Boomer Retirement Abroad Costa Rica

Back with a quick update!

I'm hoping this blog will prove to be an invaluable resource tool, as I look back on my preparation for retirement and relocation.  As an added bonus it may also help someone else. 

Costa Rican sloth photo source

But, I feel really good! 

We  have come a long way baby!  There are so many things to research to pull off a move like this.  Starting with the exploratory trip.  Yes, we still have a very long way to go but at least we are beginning to tie up loose ends regarding our first visit to the country.  I consider that progress!  We locked down a potential time slot to visit and set a deadline of September 15 for all those going to give their final confirmation. 

We’re working on our itinerary of stops and I have to say, I am really delighted with the information we've obtained through networking.  I can’t stress enough how beneficial it can be.  If I have a question I google first and then I head over to an online forum, Facebook or reach out to a fellow blogger.  The people are usually kind and helpful and they will often go out of their way to really help you.  I think of all the people I have contacted, only one or two have turned out to be duds (always expect that some people aren’t going to help you).  Don't take it personal.  Just keep on keeping on!   All the good advice, friendliness and support from the others totally outweighs the bad. 

So today I’m celebrating our progress thus far and giving a big shout out to all the people that have helped us by answering tons of questions (which I'm sure probably seem silly to them).  

Oh, maybe you are wondering why I posted the photo of the sloth today.  I don't f think I've ever really thought of seeing a sloth in my yard or slowly walking across the road or hanging from a tree overhead but it appears that is the norm in many areas of the country.  So, I've come to the conclusion that I better get used to this animal and I think a bit of research is on the horizon.  There is even a Sloth Sanctuary very close to the towns we are considering on the Caribbean coast.

So....stay tuned

and

Pura Vida
(a phrase meaning “pure life” that typifies Costa Rica's smart balance of nature and community)

Life is a beach! Boomer Retirement in Costa Rica

Uh, was it me who said (only a short week ago) that she didn't want to live at the beach and would not even consider it?

Well, I certainly can't deny that I said it because I put it in writing
but... today I am having second thoughts and have decided to consider at least one beach in particular.

That beach is located on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica in the town of Puerto Viejo.

Saddled with a bad reputation, it is one of Costa Rica's best kept secrets! (I hear the locals would like to keep it that way)

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a coastal town in Talamanca in Limón Province in southeastern Costa Rica, known simply as Puerto Viejo to locals. It is very south and close to Panama. It is also home to the BriBri, the original inhabitants of Talamanca.

For some reason there has been a lot of misinformation and myth spread about the Caribbean coast.  It appears that the only reason for this has something to do with the fact that this side of the country is  home to the majority of the African-Caribbean population.  Until yesterday, I had not heard one good thing about this part of the country.  I first mentioned that I was considering visiting Puerto Limon (Costa Rica's largest port city) in 2013.  To any and every question regarding visiting or living on the Caribbean side the responses were always negative with added warnings about increased crime and advice to stay away from the area.  So, of course it made me very nervous and hesitant to venture over to that side of the country.  

But, had any of these naysayers lived in the area or even bothered to fact check their warnings? 

I tend to think not! It's more like an urban myth that just keeps on going. 

The reason I am reconsidering the beach town of Puerto Viejo is because I discovered that just about ALL of the information I had received was incorrect.

What I found out was that Puerto Viejo is the largest tourist destination on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.  It is multi cultural and diverse with an international vibe and laid-back, Caribbean-style.   Its appeal includes stunning, unspoiled beaches and abundant wildlife with a healthy mix of music.   The food is also supposed to some of the best in the country. 

This kool mix of people and blending of cultures and bohemian lifestyle speaks to me (to us).  Our group is ready to live off the grid!

My favorite travel guys!

Can't wait to check out this restaurant
(be sure to watch to the end to see the cool restaurant photos)

We spent most of the day researching information and I found at least 4 great hotels or beach houses that are available during the time we plan to visit. They meet my initial specs of being rated at least 4 stars.  My hotel does not need to be off the grid - as a matter of fact, I'm looking for all the luxurious comforts of home.  After all this is a vacation.

Our research dispelled the myth regarding the dreadful weather.  It turns out that although it is HOT and it does rain, this area is actually one of the driest in Costa Rica and most of the rain falls at night.

I'm looking forward to checking it out in person. Whether we ultimately decide to live there, remains to be seen.

There is one HUGE fact that still remains.  It is HOT !!!

Lesson: 
Don't believe everything you hear about the places you plan to visit 

(even when you think it is coming from so called "reliable sources") 

Stay open and research, research, research 

then check it out for yourself!

I'm Just Sayin! 

Boomer Retirement Abroad - Why I decided not to relocate to the Caribbean

After visiting 8 of the most beautiful islands in the southern Caribbean, I thought I'd look into the possibility of spending some extended time there, after I retire. I wasn't going to set a time limit as to how long I would stay. I would stay until I decided it was time to move on. I added the islands to the list with the intent of researching them just as I would the other possibilities.

I decided to start my search with the USVI (St Thomas, St John and St Croix) because I had been to St Thomas and because living there would mean that we would retain our U.S citizenship, could collect social security, use medicare and a whole host of other privileges which we would be entitled to. An additional big plus -- these islands are English speaking.

I then set out on my search.

First I looked online for information, but the islands were not listed as top recommendations, so I decided to do my own research. Next I joined a forum sponsored by one of the world's largest travel guide publishers and posted my first question about retirement possibilities in the USVI.  Since we had only spent a day on St Thomas, we wanted to plan a return visit/vacation to the islands to spend a couple of weeks (several days on each of the 3 islands). We hoped to get a better feel for which one we liked best to determine whether we wanted to come back for longer stays in the future.

What I found out after an exchange of more than 60 lively posts (combined with other online info) was that the cost of living on the islands is between 25% - 35% MORE expensive (to maintain the same stye of living as I currently enjoy in the states) based on figures I shared regarding costs in the SF Bay Area. Poverty is wide spread on the islands with islanders working 2-3 jobs just to make ends meet.

The USVI and most of the other Caribbean Islands have some of the highest electricity rates in the world (not good for a city girl who wants to stay cool in the year round island heat). I found the weather to be quite hot and humid when we were there.

Island roads are not the best. On St Thomas the roads are steep and the traffic moves slowly. Also, there are no open container laws (just imagine, steep, winding, bumpy roads with no shoulder...and alcohol? Hmmm)  Drivers really utilize their horns - a lot! (it's a form of communication over there and I can personally attest to the horn blowing). Most all the cars have dings in them and the salt water wreaks havoc with the paint (not a place where I want to ship my car -- shipping costs about $1,500). The tropics rust everything with the sand, salt and breeze. Appliances and mechanic devices are always breaking down and in constant need of repair.  Power outages are the norm.

Lily - one half of the Urbandoggs (Lola was camera shy for this photo session)

A word of caution to pet owners - There are problems associated with bringing your dogs/pets to the islands. Some diseases I read about included Heartworm which is a frequent problem for pets; it is suggested to have your pet on preventative medication the entire year (and begin medication a year prior to your departure) You will need to treat monthly for ticks and fleas. Erlichiosis or “tick fever” is transmitted by these pests and can be deadly if left untreated. Also there have been reports of pet poisonings, by people who have found dogs on their property and some by people who just don't like dogs. Typically locals are afraid of dogs! So beware.

Water is very expensive and can run about $200/mo. Although commercial water is available, cisterns are still widely used. It costs $25 to purchase a 5 gallon plastic container to collect the water.  Electricity can run about $800/mo. Food prices are astronomical. Most items cost twice what they cost in the states with milk priced at about $7.99/gal. I read that there is a $15/mo charge for a mailbox. And, once outside the tourist area there is no such thing as 'customer service'.

And last but not least, the local inhabitants (called Islanders) are slow to warm up to outsiders.  This is partly due to the transitory nature of newcomers. Folks from the U.S mainland are called Continentals. Since I am black, I thought it would be interesting to live on an island where the majority population is black. As, it turns out, being black would get me no where in the Virgin Islands! Although racial issues are not common, nationalistic issues are. Virgin Islanders stick together. Caribbean people in general do the same. I would still be an outsider. It was never my intention to go to an English speaking country and have my circle of friends consist only of Americans.

There was much more, but I had collected enough information to know it was time to nix this option. No need for any further research.

Why is the cost of living so high? Because EVERYTHING has to be imported!

There's an old saying that goes something like this: 

Q - How do you leave the Caribbean with $1 million? 

A - Start out with $3 million!

The Virgin Islands are beautiful. From what I saw of St Thomas, it's a great place to visit. As far as a place for long term residency on a fixed income, it's not for me and probably not for the budget conscious. 

Do your homework BEFORE you decide to make a move. That advice goes for any place you decide to go.

I'm Just Sayin